Reimagining Chikankari: A Designer’s Tribute to India’s Timeless Hand Embroidery

Reimagining Chikankari: A Designer’s Tribute to India’s Timeless Hand Embroidery

The Legacy of Chikankari

From the very first time I laid eyes on the delicate artistry of Chikankari embroidery, I knew it would become an intrinsic part of my design language. As I immersed myself in its rich legacy and timeless heritage, I fell in love not just with the embroidery, but with the soul of the craft itself. Growing up in a home where creativity was second nature, surrounded by various forms of art from a young age, I found inspiration in the everyday—textures, stories, traditions—and each of these experiences gently shaped my sensibility as a designer.


The Making of ‘Awadh’: A Tribute to Craftsmanship

Lucknowi Chikankari has always stood out for its sheer elegance—the fineness of hand embroidery, the poetry in every stitch. Traditionally crafted on soft muslins and cottons, its subtlety was its strength. But in my journey, I’ve sought to take this beautiful legacy forward by experimenting with new textiles, adapting it for a more contemporary context without compromising its essence. Whether on silks, organzas, or other unorthodox fabrics, my aim has always been to honour the past while speaking to the present.

Rooted in the Mughal zananas, where noblewomen transformed plain fabrics into fields of hand-embroidered florals—Bakhia, Tepchi, Phanda, Muri—Lucknowi Chikankari was once a language of quiet luxury. Queen Nur Jahan’s deep love for this gentle needlework gave it a royal legacy, but over time, it has transcended the courts to become a cultural treasure—graceful, enduring, and deeply Indian. This form of traditional embroidery is one of the finest heritage crafts of India, cherished for its timeless appeal.

Why Chikankari Embroidery Endures in Modern Fashion

Over the years, I’ve worked with many art forms, but my Chikankari collection, ‘Awadh’, holds a special place in my heart. Named after the very region from which this craft emerged, the collection is a tribute—to the land, the technique, and the hands that bring it to life. Each garment weaves together tradition, craftsmanship, and a refined design sensibility that celebrates detail and restraint. It takes a team of skilled Chikankari artisans sometimes 6 to 8 weeks to complete a single piece. Each motif is hand-drawn, hand-embroidered, and carries within it the intention of the artisan. It is slow fashion in its truest form.

For me, Chikankari embroidery is not an embellishment—it is a quiet storyteller. Every thread speaks, every pattern holds a history. It is subtle, yet powerful. It doesn't shout for attention, yet it lingers in memory. To own a piece of Chikankari is to hold a fragment of history, one that has been passed down through generations. And once it touches you, it never really leaves—it becomes a part of you, stitched gently into your story.

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