Chikankari: A Story Woven in Thread
Chikankari has always felt like a quiet kind of beauty — the sort that needs no introduction. Chikan emerged centuries ago in Lucknow, in the refined atmosphere of
Awadh, a region that lived and breathed artistry. History credits Empress Nur Jehan with nurturing this craft — it’s easy to see why she was drawn to its delicacy. Under
Mughal patronage, Chikankari became part of the region’s cultural fabric — a symbol of skill, sophistication and a life lived with detail.
The earliest Chikankari was unmistakably minimal — white thread on fine white cotton, it didn’t rely on colour or grandeur. Its presence came from the confidence in craftsmanship. On muslin or mulmul, even the smallest stitch made an impression, catching the light in subtle shifts and revealing the maker’s precision. These pieces still feel almost weightless — as though they are defined more by air and light than by thread.
Craft in Practice
Every motif begins as an idea, sketched thoughtfully, then printed onto cloth using handmade wooden blocks. What follows is slow work — a needle guiding thread through sheer fabric, forming lines and textures that build into florals, paisleys and lattices. Stitches such as Tepchi and Bakhia create shadowed surfaces; Phanda and
Murri add tiny knots of dimension; Jali brings softness and flow. Each has its purpose, and together they create compositions that feel calm and precise. When the embroidery is finished, the cloth is washed to soften both fabric and thread. Only then does the full beauty appear — clean, breathable, effortless.
The Artisan and Her Skill
Chikankari continues to thrive because of the people who have kept it alive — mainly women who’ve learned it from those before them. Work often happens at home, surrounded by daily life. Hands move with a rhythm practiced over years, turning hours into art with skill and familiarity that make the demanding process look deceptively easy. It remains one of Uttar Pradesh’s most significant cottage industries, supporting thousands of families.
The challenge today comes from imitation — machine-made versions that look neat from afar but lack the human details that give Chikankari its spirit. True handwork hasidiosyncrasies, small irregularities and slight shifts in tension, a softness that machinery cannot mimic.
A Tradition That Adapts
Over time, Chikankari has evolved. Designers experiment with organza, chiffon and silk georgette. Pastel and saturated hues now sit beside the traditional whites. Silhouettes stretch far beyond kurtas — jackets, dresses, kaftans, skirts — garments that travel well beyond their place of origin. Sometimes there are touches of zardozi, pearls or sequins, adding a hint of ornament while keeping the essence intact. The versatility of the craft is part of its strength.
Caring for a Handmade Piece
Simple care keeps Chikankari at its best. Gentle washing. Shade drying. Light ironing on the reverse. With such attention, these garments age gracefully and can last decades — becoming stories rather than possessions.
Why It Still Matters
In a fast-moving world, Chikankari offers something grounding. It reminds us that time has value. That detail has meaning. That tradition can evolve without losing integrity. It remains relevant because it is real — human hands shaping something beautiful with patience.
A Personal Connection
My own journey with Chikankari began almost twenty years ago through the lens of Mughal costume research. What struck me then still strikes me today — the quiet confidence of this craft. It doesn’t insist on attention, yet it leaves a lasting impression. In creating my haute couture collection AWADH, I have had the privilege of working closely with the artisans who carry this legacy forward. Each ensemble we create is a collaboration across generations.
I continue to work with classic stitches like Tepchi, Bakhia, Murri and Phanda, while exploring new colours, textures and silhouettes that feel contemporary without losing the essence of Lucknow. The intention is always the same: to let the craft speak for itself and to honour the skill of those who shape it.
Chikankari has a way of staying constant — season after season, trend after trend. It endures because it was never just about fashion. It has always been about craft, culture and the simple elegance of a needle passing through cloth.
